ISSUE 24 – Finding Your Unique Style 🪡

Dear Member,

Is that Spring we smell wafting into the club? Well, regardless we’ve certainly been busy ensuring the transition from Winter to Spring here at The Rhubarb Society is as seamless as your accountant’s creative bookkeeping. Our head chef has been busy sourcing ingredients for our Seasonal Sorbet Cart (due to resume in April) and our newest crop of ball boys have been instructed to roll their eyes only when you’re notlooking (or when the ball is not in play). For those whose only personality trait revolves around the ski season, fear not—our ‘Alpine-to-Ace’ package ensures that, Andrei, our head coach, will yell ‘Pizza! French fry!’ sporadically during your matches, complete with a half-time Schnitzel to keep the nostalgia alive.

We know how stressful the changing of seasons can be (moving the staff, finding a new gardener, taking the Missoni out of storage, etc etc.) but most notably, we understand how it provokes a sense of sartorial panic – transitioning from sables and salopettes to linen shirts and Chanel slingbacks can be a shock to the system, and, if there’s one thing we want our member’s to feel comfortable in, it’s their personal style. For this issue, we are handing the reins to our in house style advisor for advice on how to find and curate your own personal style. We are also thrilled to share our interview with Lissy, a TRS approved third generation tailor who is paving the way for female tailoring.

 

However, before we dive in, let’s start with a few updates from around the club!

• We are thrilled to share our first in person event will be taking place in April in London! An email with further details and an opportunity to purchase tickets will be emailed at 9am on Tuesday the 11th. Private Members will receive priority with their email being sent at 7pm on Monday the 10th. As this is our first event, the tickets will be limited, but if you miss out this time, fear not, we have plenty of other exciting events in the pipeline!
• Our Society Key Ring is finally back in stock after an incredibly long hiatus.
• This months Film Club pick is ‘Sing Sing’ – if you would like to take part in the discussions, all participating Private Members have until March 30th to watch.
• We are still continuing with ‘The Wedding People’ for this months Book Club but voting is now open for Aprils pick in The Clubhouse.
• We are currently in the process of sampling a handful of new items for The Club Shop including; A canvas tote (LL Bean style), a jersey cotton t-shirt (in two colour ways), a light knitted jumper (in two colour ways), club stationery, and updated stickers with our new illustrations. 
• We are looking at curating in depth City Guides for our members, so if anyone with a thorough knowledge of their city would like to contribute, please register your interest by emailing hello@therhubarbsociety.com with your city of choice.

At The Rhubarb Society, we are nothing, if not fans of personality, charm and varied interests. Which is why we appreciate and encourage self expression in all its forms, but most notably, in how we convey this through what we wear. However, in an age of constant comparison and content overload, it can be hard to strive for truly authentic expression. That’s why we have taken it upon ourselves to share the ways we like to research and make considered choices when it comes to getting dressed and shaping our personal aesthetics.

Where to find inspiration:

Yes, Pinterest is an inspiration source, but the thing with it is someone has to add the assets to Pinterest in order for you to find them. So, there is a finite amount of new imagery and, therefore, inspiration to be found.
I prefer to dig a little deeper.

 

Look at the brands you like. See what they reference whether that’s a time period, a film, an artistic movement, so on and so forth. You can then dig deeper into these snippets of inspiration and find things you’d never have known before. Treat the task of finding your style as you would a university dissertation. You need to read around the subject in order to get to the essence of what it is all about. Only then can you fully interpret the intended meaning and see if that applies to what you are after.
Think about what it is you want to convey and mix that with the reality of your daily life. These two factors will balance the outward representation of your style, with the limitations or restrictions that shape your life. It’s all well and good wanting to dress in full method character a la Timothée Chalamet until you are in the washing powder aisle at Tesco Express on a Tuesday evening on a rainy, Winter evening.

 

Perhaps you are at university and want to balance looking relaxed, but not like you are going to lectures in pjs. Or, maybe you have a job that requires you to work with children, and you need to be able to be put together but comfortable enough to sit down cross-legged on the floor. These realities are not to be ignored.

How to shop discerningly:

Once you have figured out the above, it’s about spending carefully and not mindlessly.

That means buying things you will actually live your life in and wear. The high street and the rise of fast fashion has diminished our understanding of the value of clothing in the space of 40 years. Producing clothing fairly and making it with craftspeople and experts means that the cost of clothing was much higher but closer to its true cost. Whereas nowadays, we think spending more than £100 on an item of clothing is a lot, which simply isn’t the case. The idea of acquiring a vast wardrobe, with multiple versions of each category, is normal. But, as we have learnt through the awareness of the waste and contribution to the climate crisis the fashion industry adds, we know a more old-school approach to shopping is prudent.

The only way to be able to shop in a way where you actually wear out the clothes you buy is to truly know yourself and be comfortable with the way in which you are presenting yourself to the world. And that doesn’t always come easily, and isn’t always a fixed thing. As we age, and change the way we see ourselves and our stages of life shift, so does our style.

The suggested starting point for this project of shopping in a new way is to review what we actually wear on a week-to-week basis. Reflect on what these pieces are, and how they mirror your practical needs and personal expression. From there, you can slowly begin to build out (ie. You prefer to wear dresses for work, as they are quick and easy but still appropriate when you’re time strapped on weekday mornings but on the weekends, you prefer to wear jeans and a fitted t-shirt for a more low-key and relaxed feel.)

This could mean that perhaps you don’t need to build out the areas where you have gaps, such as smart trousers or skirts, because you simply aren’t reaching for them. And that’s ok. You don’t have to hit each category in order to build a wardrobe that works for you.

I, for one, opt out of the denim conversation, because I never feel like myself in them. I don’t know why, but I am confident that I do not need to find the jeans for me, because I don’t have a need for them. It’s actually quite a freeing revelation to not have to find a version of something in each category for your wardrobe.

So identify what you go to often, and build from there. Think before you buy, and once you have identified what you actually wear each week, then go on a no spending period. This will help you to highlight the gaps in your wardrobe and also help you discover if you already have pieces that could fill them or if you could imagine a hypothetical item that would fill that gap.
Again, it’s not about getting more things but instead feeling more like yourself.

Ultimately, the goal is to have a wardrobe without “filler pieces” – to be greeted by a wardrobe of things you wear and love. This will be different for each person depending on the above, but an example could be something like this:

• 4 classic oversized shirts in stripes or block colours 

(Vintage Ralph Lauren, or Cos / Arket)

• Tailored but relaxed trousers in navy

(go for classic workwear brands like Carhartt, Dickies or Gramicci)

• 3 x tshirts, in classic crew neck and high neck versions

(Uniqlo Airism)

• More elevated black trousers (different fabrics – silk, plisse, velvet)

 (this is where a bigger budget might come into play – Tibi, The Row, Dries van Noten, but I dare say Cos as well).

• Utility layering jacket

 (vintage, or Uniqlo/ Cos / Drake’s or Alex Mill)

• Oversized blazer 

(go for the best quality you can – a Tibi Liam, Studio Nicholson or look for resale or vintage options. The key here is the sleeve construction, this helps make the style feel the right kind of oversized, vs drowning).

• Wool overcoat

(Again, the best quality version is the aim here. If you can go for Drake’s, Prada, Dries or Tibi, but if not, a vintage version you can tailor, or one from Cos or Arket also work).

• Lightweight jacket 

(Uniqlo, Drake’s)

• 2 x skirts, one short and pleated, one long and lean with a tailored waistband

(Tibi – skirts for trouser people or Margaret Howell, Isabel Marant Etoile, or Soeur.)

• One thick oversized crew neck jumper 

(Navygrey – made in the British Isles – will last you years and years – no need to wash).

• One lighter weight knit

(Preferably cotton or very lightweight cashmere, we love the J Crew Heritage 1988 rollneck or our very own members knit!)

• 2 x Dresses for events (or to be layered with knitwear and jackets)

(a shorter black dress, then a full length or midi flowy style – Doen for a more feminine style, Cos for something more pushed, architectural and wearable).

• 2 x Trackies

(Tibi -the Calder sweatpants are the best, as are the Winslows)

• Oversized but refined hoody

(Tibi, but failing that size up in Pangaia or Cos)

• Sweatshirt

(Tibi, or size up at Uniqlo)

 

Where to shop?

It can be a minefield trying to find the ideal versions of these items you are referencing or looking for. Sometimes it pays to get super referential and find exact versions of what you are looking for by going vintage – but often that is a hard and time consuming venture.

So to help streamline that process, we have added our recommended brands for each of the above styles. Here’s a shortlist:

• For the luxury grails – Dries van Noten and Prada. Any era.
• For modernity – Tibi – a higher price point, but clear wardrobe solutions and pieces that are anything but basic, but also highly wearable and timeless. I would also encourage readers to watch their weekly style class on Instagram where the team break down pieces and showcase the wearability and use of the styles.
• Cos & Arket – for those who aren’t able to make the jump to Prada, Dries or Tibi… They create pieces that share the same ethos of modernity, simplicity and practicality at a lower price point. The quality, structure and materials are obviously reflective of that. The shirts are excellent.
• Uniqlo – Obvious, but essential to the list. If in doubt, wear Uniqlo, and you’ll look simple and classic. The bonus here is the investment put into the fabric development means you are getting way more for your money than other high-street brands – the price and quality are great. We love the airism technology styles.
• Drake’s – for modern classics.

If in doubt, size up in everything. No one does intended fit (unless you shop at Tibi). You won’t regret it.

The one element we haven’t spoken about yet is adding personality, which is obviously key…otherwise we’d all have stuck to the uniform school of thought, but the lack of self-expression and personalisation really isn’t ideal. So what are the things that make you feel like you? What are the things that resonate with you? A style that reminds you of your mum, or something you used to wear and love as a child? These are the things that help to keep your style personal and unique. Your style should be uniquely yours, and not a carbon copy of outfits you’ve seen online or on social media.

The ideal place to work in some personality and quirk is through accessories, jewellery and shoes. These can add so much to a wardrobe, without messing with the practicality and comfort you may need in your day to day life.

This doesn’t need to be expensive either. Vintage custom jewellery, handcrafted scarves, a neckerchief or tie, trademark trainers, quirky socks, the list goes on and on.

For personality additions:
Etsy – Vintage accessories from all eras available at the click of a button
Travel items / Souvenirs (our chairwoman loves enamel pins and badges to dress up jackets and blazers)
Personal Family Items
Jewellery with stories (buy small pieces from flea markets and stalls on your travels or for notable moments and occasions in your life)
Socks – either that show your affiliation with sports teams, players, or a little flash of colour!

Interview: Alyssia Everest

Meet Lissy Everest, the third generation tailor adding a feminine touch to the world of London tailoring. In an industry that is famously male-dominated, Lissy has managed to create a space where women can feel comfortable and welcome; whether they’re looking to create a classic everyday blazer or even a three-piece wedding suit (Lissy created Tamsin’s suit for her civil ceremony which they affectionately nicknamed ‘The Mullet’). However, it’s not all tailoring and suiting; she’s also an expert at creating one-of-a-kind couture and bridal gowns, providing alteration services, taking a collaborative approach with her clients in order to create personal and unique pieces together. Before we dive into the world of fashion, tailoring, and the beloved Instagram phenomenon that was ‘Sniperwatch’, you can find Lissy at Atelier Calico, where you can get in touch with her for all your tailoring needs via DM.

Which piece of clothing do you never get sick of creating? A classic blazer, it’s always the go to piece for me and was the first item in my collection – single-breasted, peak lapel with a long coat length – it’s very elegant and elongates the body. I love the versatility of this style; it’s evening-wear inspired but adaptable enough to be worn from day to night.

What’s the one piece of fashion history you wish you had created/ been a part of? Probably the first pair of trousers created for the woman – not only was it iconic but it was a huge shift in fashion history. The person who really defined that was Katherine Hepburn, who would always wear a wide-leg pleated trouser. She’d often wear men’s ones because they were more comfortable and practical. She thought it was a silly gender stereotype for women not to be able to wear something like trousers that were both functional and elegant at the same time; that really inspired me as well when I was getting into tailoring, it’s the ability to create a sense of style, experiment with rules and proportions.

What makes made to measure /bespoke different or better than ready-to-wear? The fit is completely tailored to you. I think people assume it wouldn’t be comfortable – that everything is very structured and close to the body, but if anything, it’s more comfortable. It changes how you stand, how you move –  a one of a kind piece made just for you.

How has made to measure in the womenswear space changed in the last decade? It’s changed hugely! If you look at Savile Row, the first ladieswear and tailoring shop opened a few years ago, and historically it was a male dominated space. The thing is, I think there’s always been a desire for there to be womenswear and womens tailoring but no designated brands or shops for it. There’s a huge disparity when it comes to tailoring and women have to go to non specialist places for these items versus men and their many options at varied price points. Thankfully there are more and more brands coming up in this space to offer made to measure products for women.

During your time as a tailor in London, have the requested silhouettes changed or altered over time? There’s always a demand for a classic suit, which has a slight influence with what’s on trend at the time in terms of proportions, however I try to steer the client towards a fit most in line with them, their style, lines and personality. Generally speaking, this would consist of a higher rise trouser, wider through the leg with a taper through the knee for ease of movement and a drape which in turn elongates the silhouette, and a classic single-breasted or double breasted blazer. The time periods I feel clients request the most or the references I pull are often from the 60s / 70s as they appear modern and forward looking with a flair for the past heritage of fashion.

How do you dress on a day-to-day basis while working as a tailor? As cliche as it sounds, usually something tailored, as it does make you carry yourself with more posture, the only thing that should look like the ‘Hunchback of Notre Dame’ is my pin cushion not my back! However, I normally wear trousers – I prefer a high rise and a wide leg. It gives an elegant cut to the trouser. But the paramount thing is wearing something that makes me feel comfortable. I tend to fall back on a uniform – blazer, t -shirt, tailored trousers. I do always have one tailored piece on usually, even if it’s made of a different fabric, i.e. denim.

What’s the go-to item of clothing you couldn’t live without? A high-waisted pleated trouser with a turn-up and hip straps that you can cinch in and let out easily – great for women, as our bodies fluctuate throughout the day.

What inspires the work you do? Honestly, it’s all about slow fashion and sustainability. Considering that bespoke tailoring and one of a kind clothing production really was the first iteration of sustainable and slow fashion. It’s as the businesses and demand have grown that everything has escalated so quickly. Originally, clothing was handmade, with no machines. The cloth would be locally sourced, often from north of England or Scotland.

“There was even a term for the people who would collect the scrap cloths and reconstitute it to make other garments, called the Mungo men. This was the original reworked and repurposed project, which was just built into the making process of clothing in the beginning. It’s actually very British if you think of “the waste not, want not” proverb.”

How do you define truly great style? Something timeless, looking back on periods I associate with. Generally, if you wear something with conviction, that you feel comfortable and confident in, you will look elegant and stylish. Knowing your shape is so important and what suits you.

When it comes to quality, what are the key things to look out for, if you can’t quite stretch the budget to made-to-measure? Something that has a nice cut will enhance the look of a piece – it can be a good insight sometimes to follow which head of design has moved to a high street brand as their eye for detail and design style will filter quite fluently into the brand. For example, if you love the way Hedi Slimane cuts a jacket, you can follow him from Dior Men, Saint Laurent and Celine and then find vintage versions of his tailoring. A more luxe cloth with less synthetics is important too, but there are loads of recycled cloths that mimic cashmere and wool nowadays at a more affordable price point.

What is better – going to charity shops and tailoring things, or buying from the high street? Charity shopping and looking out for quality fabrics and taking it to an alterations tailor and having it fit you well is a great affordable way to get quality at a lower budget. The same applies for the high street. Historically things were made to a much higher quality than today, so if you can get your hands on pieces made from great cloth at a lower price point (even if that means raiding your parents or even grand-parents wardrobes), then getting them tweaked to fit at an alterations tailor is definitely the most cost effective way to get quality pieces.

Biggest style pet peeve? Jeggings and skinny jeans – when there’s lycra in a denim it’s a no go for me. Or those very long pointy shoes on a man… @sniperwatch for those who remember.

What’s your approach to shopping / building out your style? I actively try not to buy new things. By making things I am often trying on different silhouettes and shapes, so if I am interested in trying a new style, I often start by making something that replicates some of the design features in a cut I really like.

One item every woman should own? A classic overcoat. Interchangeable and looks timeless, very elegant and easily layered. It never goes out of style and moves with the times. A slightly oversized shape is great, and even better with a raglan sleeve to accommodate even the chunkiest of sweaters for sweater weather! (something everyone’s grandparents should have that you can always inherit and have re-lined or tailored) and will last a lifetime.

Follow Lissy at atelier_calico_